La Recessionista Files

Tales from an unemployed renegade on a world tour 



January 12, 2009

A sign of hope

I meant to include this pic in the above post. Here is Tony with his Obama painting. It is hard to see it in the picture, but Obama has a daisy held between his teeth. Tony said this painting really jumped out at him (like in most coastal tourists towns, there is lots of mediocre art for sale here). In Tony's words "Isn't this brilliant?! Such a sign of hope". I concur.
Tony has done some amazing work, mainly painting and sculptures. He also does volunteer art projects with kids. Check out Tony's art here.

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January 12, 2009

A few quick tidbits on Salvador

I'm having so much fun, it's hard to find computer time. Here are a few quick highlights:
 
Spent the day yesterday looking at museums, churches and art galleries - good fun. At breakfast we met Tony, an artist from London staying in our hotel. There is a pic of Tony proudly displaying the painting of Obama (with a daisy in his mouth) that he bought in the square here in Salvador.
 
We stopped by the Mercado Modelo.Located near the dock, it used to be used to import sugar and slaves. It is now a market with tourist trinkets for sale.There is a bottom floor where thousands of slaves would be shackled together. In high tides many slaves were drowned. Apparently Brazil brought over 4 million slaves. Oddly enough there does not appear (at least on the surface) to be any prejudice here.
 
We also visited Barra and Rio Vermhillio, two beach side communities. The beaches were pretty and also very populated (as you can see). On the beach in Barra I saw an old woman (maybe 70) in a string bikini and sooo tan. I think this is the model for the latest D&G ads. I was so horrified by the leathery appearance of her skin that I did not notice that she may in fact be a dwarf. I don't know - it was an alarming 30 seconds for me and I simply had to get photographic evidence for my sisters.
 
Last night we missed one concert we heard was going to be phenomenal. Discouraged, we skulked into Pelhourinho to see if we could find any music. Our luck turned around when we happened upon a concert by
Olo Dum a cultural organization focused on african drumming/dance. They were amazing. Kind of like seeing the Brazilian Extra Action Marching band. Loved it. And check this out - another Paul Simon connection. Olo Dum is featured in one of  Paul Simon's albums. How do you like that BWardius?!
Tonight we are off to see a Candomblé ceremony then to check out some free concerts in the square.

       

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January 10, 2009

Super Sunny Salvador

Still loving it here in Salvador. Last night we had dinner outdoors under the full moon listening to a somewhat talented bossa nova singer. Que romantico. We caught a handful of free outdoor concerts in the town square in Pelhourino and then called it a night.
 
This morning we were thrilled to see that breakfast was served on a beautiful patio overlooking the bay and even happier to see the amazing spread! Tons of fruit, yogurt, a selection of cheeses, house-made pastries (sweet and savory) and eggs made to order. YUMMY!
 
Today we explored the many churches (you'll see Lisa and I in confession) and after discovering the afro braz musuem was closed, had a nice two beer lunch accompanied by our sandwiches liberated from the breakfast buffet. I kinda feel like a back packer! So far I haven't found a tour guide that will show us the underground tunnels of the ingresas (churches). If those wall could talk.
 
In the 3rd church of Sao Francisco, one of the most ornate churches in Brazil, workers randomly found a facade that had been covered for years. It took 9 years of careful scrapping to uncover the original ornate building. Why cover a beautiful building? Who knows. I imagine the Catholics have bigger questions to answer. We also visted the town square where slaves were sold. Heavy. 
 
 

               

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January 10, 2009

Ahhhhh… Salvador

We arrived in Salvador yesterday afternoon – I think I'm gonna love it here. Granted – I've only seen two neighborhoods so far, but I have a good feeling about this place.

 

Salvador is a big city (2.7 million) with at least 8 different neighborhoods. After much thought, we opted to stay in Santo Antonio, an old residential neighborhood with loads of restored colonial homes. Our posada is completely lovely and our room is huge! The owner must be an artist or some type of designer because the place is rustic and charming, but also full of style. Our room overlooks the harbor.

 

We are within walking distance to the Pelourinho neighborhood which is filled with old buildings, churches, restaurants, bars and shops. Lisa found a vegetarian restaurant and I was literally jumping for joy. The owners of Hostel Galleria 13 (a Brazilian and an African/Brit) served up some great food. To make our lunch even more interesting a pair of socks and some underwear fell on Lisa's head from a nearby clothesline as the owner was jiggling some wires attempting to install a new security camera.

 

Speaking of safety, the guide books and other travelers had us frightened about carrying a camera, or even a purse. From speaking to locals it doesn't sound like Salvador is any more or less dangerous than most big cities. I certainly plan to take my camera (it's so little anyway) with me because the sites are really beautiful. Old crumbling mansions, live music on the streets, an ocean view – this is the Brazil I've had in my mind's eye. No offense Rio – but Salvador has soul. We have 8 days here and I think we have plenty to keep us busy.

Today we are heading to Ciadade Alta to check out the afro brazilian museum and a church that was discovered to have a complex set of underground tunnels. Sounds suspicious to me - hidden passages and repressed Catholics. I'll let you do the math,

 

For you fashionistas out there - I am enamored over this clothing designer. She uses raw stones and string. sometimes a bit of lace in her designs. There is a top I am DYING over with raw amethyst sewn all over it.

   

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January 8, 2009

Indian food at last!

We arrived in Sao Paulo around 2pm and hungry for lunch. This city is huge and our hotel is on the outskirts of downtown, not much to offer in the form of actual food (The McDonalds clearly was not an option).
 
After studying the map and guide book we decide on an Indian place. I am simply overjoyed because all I have had to eat is some form of bread, cheese and pasta. Put a fork in me, I'm DONE.
 
We cab across town and arrive at the restaurant. As baby Shiva watches over us, we try to decipher the menu. It's at least 7 pages long and all in Portuguese. The waitress brings over a client who speaks some English. He explains that each day there are just two lunch options. Ok - this makes things easy! I select the vegetarian option and so does Lisa. The menu says something about cheese, so I figure it is the excellent cubed Indian cheese. The guy mentions something about pasta, but I think it is rice lost in translation. Sure enough - our lunch appears and it is lasagna. Not Indian-style lasagna, just plain old lasagna. The lunch is also served with a mango lassi and I think a mango pudding.
 
So again - expect the unexpected. Just because you are eating in an Indian restaurant, don't assume you will eat Indian food.
 
Tonight Lisa's friend Marcello is picking us up for dinner and then to hear some "typical Brazilian music". Who knows, maybe he will select an Indian restaurant that serves good Korean BBQ.

   

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January 8, 2009

Hop on the bus Gus

Well Gus, if you wanna hop on that bus, make sure you buy your ticket early. Otherwise, just make a new plan, Stan.

 

For all you youngsters I am referencing a Paul Simon song, 50 Ways To Leave Your Lover. That's the thing about getting older, there is an ever-growing population of people who may not know what the hell you are talking about.

 

Anyway – back to the bus. Lisa and I learned an important lesson yesterday, one I think we will continue to learn and then re-learn. When traveling in other countries, you can't expect things to be as they are back home. For instance, we needed to take a bus to Sao Paulo this morning. We stopped by the bus stop yesterday to buy our tickets only to learn they were sold out for the next 2 days. Given that we have a flight early tomorrow from Sao Paulo, this was bad news.

 

We had a short period of regret, kicking ourselves for not buying the tickets earlier! After exploring a few options (like hiring the man's friend from the bus company to drive us) we landed on a much better option. We shared a private mini shuttle with two lovely people from San Diego. It is clean, air conditioned and I was even able to stretch out on the back seat to sleep. Our lesson – expect the unexpected, don't stress and be open to new opportunities. Or, as Paul Simon would say "Don't need to discuss much, just set yourself free".

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January 8, 2009

Paraty Islands

We spent the afternoon yesterday on a boat touring the islands around Paraty. It was a gorgeous day filled with beautiful scenery, Brazilian music, new friends and cold beer.
 
The boat is run by an Italian family (from Rome) with 3 sons ages 18,16 & 3. The dad is captain and the mom stayed in the galley the entire time cooking lunch for the 20 or so people on board.
 
The sons each helped with various tasks on the boat. The youngest son was a pistol. He was all business and no play. He had his own "anchor" that was really an old wrench or something with a plastic chain tied to it. Clearly, as the youngest of three boys it was important for him to be taken seriously, and he ran a tight ship. He scolded both Lisa and I at different times for being in his way.
 
The islands themselves are all beautiful. Some have sand beaches and others are based on rock. Many of the islands have just one or sometimes two houses on them. It made me think about what life would be like on an island. Depending on the company you keep, it could be kinda nice.
 
We stopped at three islands and also did some old-school snorkeling. Without masks all you can do is open your eyes underwater, it works surprisingly well.
 
 
 

             

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January 8, 2009

hey você quer um passeio?

Yesterday was the first sun we've seen in 4 days. We decided a boat tour would be the best way to see the many islands here in Paraty. On our walk to town a car pulls over and these Brazilian women ask "hey você quer um passeio?". I thought they were asking for directions but as it turns out, they are just very nice and wondering if we wanted a ride to town. These three women are teachers in Rio, on vacation in Paraty. They get about 4 months off a year!
 
It turns out they also wanted to take a boat tour. Rather than go to the tourist office where Lisa and I were headed, these Brazilians went straight for the dock and we hired our own boat.
 
Chance encounters of the best kind - we had a super day with our new Brazilian friends. They even taught us some dirty words in Portugese and explained some of the double entendres found in Bahian style music. This is helpful since we are headed to Bahia tomorrow. Plus - it is a shame to leave any country without learning at least one bad word.

   

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January 6, 2009

How quickly one forgets

I realized today how distant the memory is of work life. I can barely remember what it feels like to have a job. Despite the miserable day I am having trying to organize flights, hotels, bus routes - it beats sitting in a cube. So, i'll carry on with my frustrating tasks... but this time with a smile.
 
Still raining here btw and Lisa Carey has a cold. On the upside, we've learned how to eat on a budget. We bought cheese and almonds at the local grocery store and liberated a couple extra rolls from the complimentary breakfast buffet. And there you have it - a low-budget lunch.

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January 5, 2009

Bday in SF

In mid-December I celebrated my birthday again. I think it is entirely acceptable to celebrate your birth month. In fact, my friend Christina usually celebrates half-birthdays as well as multiple celebrations the month of. I think she is on to something.
 
The party was filled with my favorite people. I couldn't ask for a better way to turn 40 (well, ok i'd technically already been 40 for about 10 days). Unfortunately I was too busy having fun to take pictures. Thankfully someone grabbed my camera and took a few shots.
 
Around midnight I forced everyone to go dancing at Bollyhood, a new-ish place on 19th/Mission playing "dirty dub and cosmic disco". Super fun! I love that it is so small and the crowd was mixed. Victoria (seen in one of her beautiful saris) was the HIT of the dance floor. This is nothing new, Victoria can dance up a storm. Not to be upstaged, Alex and Jessica took to the dance floor and there a dance-off unfolded. Jessica's glittering lashes matched the sparkle on her dress, which happened to go very well with the disco beats.
We ended the evening with the obligatory early morning taco at Taqueria Cancun. Oh how I miss their veggie tacos!
 
As my dear friend Toby would say "It was an epic night". True to dat.

               

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