La Recessionista Files

Tales from an unemployed renegade on a world tour 



January 5, 2009

Rainy day in paradise

It's raining here in Paraty. And not that warm tropical rain, its cold and overcast. This put a kink in our plans since we are here to see the beaches and there isn't much else to see. The town of Paraty is sort of cute, but in a Carmel- Fisherman's Wharf kinda way. Luckily our pousada (hotel) has a nice open patio that is protected from the rain. So, as I sit here in type in the middle of the jungle I can't exactly feel sorry for myself.

 

As we walked in the rain to find lunch, we spotted a dog lying in the streets who was obviously very sick. He seemed close to death and its been hard to get out of my mind. Lisa has a book on Buddhism, maybe i'll find some words of wisdom to help me find perspective. I just can't stand to see animals suffering.
 
I nabbed some pictures from the web of Ilha Grande - the island we were supposed to visit. With luck tomorrow will bring better weather and we'll visit Trinidad beach, about an hour away.
 
 

     

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January 5, 2009

dozens of cousins

Many of my friends have asked "do you really have that many cousins?". The answer is yes. And they are everywhere, so keep this in mind if you ever speak poorly of me in a crowded room.
 
My second cousin Sheri and her husband David are on a month long trip: Brazil, Argentina and a cruise that goes from Rio to Antarctica and then Chile. Sheri has worked with the doctors without borders organization and is no stranger to travel. She and David make full use of their retirement - no moss growing on their tires.
 
I met up with them on our last night in Rio. Great to see a familiar face. Sheri is also a great photographer as evidenced here with her excellent "one arm" shot of the two of us.

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January 5, 2009

Paraty

Yesterday we took a 4 hour bus ride from Rio to Paraty. Paraty is lovely. It's a small town which is great for someone like me who is directionally challenged. It is high season here so we had trouble finding a place to stay. Luckily we landed at Dos Ventos - it is set in the jungle, we have a king size bed AND a private deck with a hammock. When we arrived we were greeted with a "welcome" drink.
 
It is overcast and raining and the weather is rumored supposed to stay this way all week.
 
Last night we ate at Margarida Cafe. The wine (Malbec from Argentina) was delicious but as pricey as ever. The food was pretty good, however everything was fried. Apparently even when you order a filet of fish, it comes fried. The restaurant had tons of ambiance and a great bosso nova band. We sat next to a band member during dinner and after the show the band stopped by our table to chat. I think the drummer has a crush on Lisa. They've invited us back again tonight.
 
 

           

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January 3, 2009

Sometimes you can get a free ride

We hit up the Santa Teresa neighborhood again today to check out the sights in the light of day. Had lunch at an excellent seafood restaurant. More shrimp for me! I also bravely tried some of Edgar's dorado. It looked exactly like a pork chop so it kinda freaked me out. I have to admit it was one of the tastiest dishes yet. They serve this fried flour dish (it sounds like faro) with most dishes here. People seem to put it on meat and fish. I liked the additional texture it lends, but I think it was full of MSG. We enjoyed a rousing political discussion where my despise for Sarah Palin was heightened by the MSG in my bloodstream. Perhaps a new twist to the twinkie defense.
 
After lunch we jumped on the bonho - the cable car/tram that runs from the center of Rio to Santa Teresa. There were no seats left so we stood along the side and held on for dear life. It was so much fun! The best part is you don't have to pay unless you sit down. Frankly, I loved standing and would have paid extra for the thrill.
 
The views from Santa Teresa are amazing. They also have talented graffiti artists. I missed a ton of great shots because I was too busy trying to stay alive. The colonial mini-mansions are charming and somewhat falling apart. My favorite, decadence in decay. If I were to return to Rio - I would stay in Santa Teresa.
 
We leave tomorrow morning for Paraty - a colonial beach town. I'm ready to get outta the city.

             

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January 3, 2009

Santa Teresa

Last night Lisa, Edgar, Karen and I finally made it to Santa Teresa. A tiny little town atop a giant hill that overlooks central Rio. It used to be a very wealthy area until in the 60's crime plus destruction from a big storm drove out the rich folks. This made room for artists to move in and create a cool, arty mountain top town.
 
It was raining really hard and our cab struggled to climb the steep and winding cobblestone streets. We were in hot pursuit of a restaurant Lisa read about in the NY times - Espirito Santo. When w arrived the wrought iron door to the restaurant was chained shut, puzzling because there were customers inside. The manager tried to convince us that we couldn't have a table. We each tried to persuade him and in the end, Edgar won the manager's heart by flashing a wad of cash. I took a picture of Edgar as he proudly explained how beauty can only get you so far, but the mighty green works every time.
 
The place is small, really cute. The clincher is the back patio with views of Rio. Dinner was great, lots of spicy shrimp in coconut sauce, cheese-stuffed potato balls, I can't even remember all the tasty treats. Likely because the bar mixed such great cocktails.
 
Dancing in Lapa after dinner was crazy fun. K + E wowed the masses with their expert salsa dancing. I forced myself (and my two left feet) to dance. Sometimes its better to feel good than to look good.
 
Lapa is so skanky that I washed the bottom of my shoes again. I need to get used to public streets that double as public toilets, I suppose. I'm just easing into it.

     

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January 2, 2009

I'm a monkey lover and all

... but really. If this monkey's face doesn't say " I want to tear your head off for breakfast", I don't know what does. In fact, these monkeys make their primate counterparts from the Wizard of Oz look like school yard chumps.
 
We met these monkeys atop Sugar Loaf mountain yesterday. Initially I thought they were cute enough to take home in my luggage. I quickly realized they were actually quite evil. I'll hold out for a chimpanzee, thank you.
 
Sugar loaf was interesting to visit, great views and all. The only drawback is all the other tourists looking at the same things. Can't they wait until I am done looking? Do I need to hire a monkey to ensure I have enough personal space to enjoy my own private moment? Of course, I am only half-joking.

     

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January 2, 2009

Travel lesson of the day

Plan in advance, especially when visiting Brazil. Apparently we should have purchased a brazil air pass that allows for 4 trips within Brazil for a fraction of the cost we are paying. And of course, you can't purchase an air pass once you are already here.
 
Being the daughter of a teacher and sometimes student tour leader, I sometimes rebel against the notion of pre-planning every detail of a trip. Well dad, guess what - you were right. These free-wheeling travelers have spent more hours than I'd care to admit arranging our remaining month in Brazil.
 
After putting in a hard days work as novice travel agents, we are enjoying a pre-dinner drink. Total bonus - the guy who lives here keeps his vodka (kettle one) in the freezer so I hardly notice i'm drinking sans ice.
 
We are now off to Santa Teresa for dinner, then back to Lapa for dancing. We stopped by the Lapa neighborhood last night and it is my favorite part of Rio so far. Completely seedy (in fact, I did squirt dish soap on the bottom of my shoes upon returning home from Lapa last night) and filled with people enjoying music in bars, cafes, restaurants and all over the streets. It is a place to watch your back - lots of zombie people (like the SF Tenderloin). To me it is totally charming and the first neighborhood here that I really connect with. A very pretty trannny hooker winked at me last night. She/he must recognize my SF roots.
 
Grouchy bear is hibernating. In fact, i've decided that I won't even be upset if my pictures won't upload.
 
Have a great night all!
 
 

     

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January 2, 2009

Grouchy Bear

My sleep pattern in Rio is from about 5-6am till noon. This morning, the front desk awoke us again. This time it was to collect the non-existent sheets and towels they thought needed to be washed for the next guests. After much back and forth - they left us alone. The friend of a friend whose place we are staying in called on Tue to say his company decided not to keep his corporate apartment, so it looked like we would have to stay with one of his friends since the entire city is booked for NYE week. Luckily the manager here found us a vacancy.
 
I am grouchy because the internet is spotty, this compact computer we are using has a weird keyboard AND my email is misbehaving ...and I can't upload pictures to my blog. 
 
On the positive side, after hours of research we are off to the airport to book the rest of our trip here in Brazil.
 
All in all - it's stil great to be here. I am going to put the computer away and join the real world here in Rio. Off to visit the Santa Teresa neighborhood for a late lunch.

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January 1, 2009

Birthday in Tulum

For my birthday I always host a series of parties – I think it is because I like to throw parties. Or maybe it is because I am self-obsessed. I don't know and my shrink does not read this blog, so we'll just have to let that one go.

 

Earlier this month a bevy of beautiful SF/LA-ites arrived in Tulum, Mexico for the grand celebration.We enjoyed lazy days at the beach, meals overlooking the ocean, plentiful cocktails and dancing on the beach.

 

On our first night out we met Max and Karim at a bar/salsa club called Zebra. Our trip was exponentially more fun because of this chance encounter. These guys (doctors from Germany on holiday) are world travelers and speak fluent Spanish (among other languages). Max convinced me to salsa dance and it was such a memorable experience dancing under the palm trees. I should dance more often.

 

We enjoyed two theme parties: Bollywood Nights and a 60's beach bash we called the Age of Aquarius. The night of the bollywood party we experienced the most spectacular sunset that turned the sand a vibrant shade of pink. A perfect setting for all the colorful saris. Max learning to shake his hips wearing a belt of bells was a high-point of the beach party.

 

Our bungalow was perfect for entertaining and we spent lots of time hanging out, playing games (I kicked ass in Balderdash) and indulging Kate in her favorite pastime, the follow-along dance. The Dutch guys who ran the place were adorable and budding restaurateurs. They are also the most handsome men I've ever had cleaning my room -meow! 

 

Tulum is a great place to vacation. The beaches are about the prettiest I've seen, it is relatively untouched and is located off the grid so everyone is forced to be eco-minded. Lots to do and see if you can pull yourself from the beach (the Mayan ruins are unbelievable and Tulum has the 2nd largest coral reef in the world).

 

Josh, Caara and Scott win the prize for selecting the BEST place to stay in Tulum: Coqui Coqui. I took a bath there and it was truly one of the 8th wonders of my life.

 

I'm ready to return

     

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January 1, 2009

Bon Ano Novo

What a great way to start the new year. Not exactly what I expected of NYE in Brazil, however truly magnificent all the same. In my mind NYE in Brazil is this overwhelming visceral experience where you get caught up in throngs of dancing, drums and well.. drinks. I came home before the sun and could easily walk a straight line. Still, I wouldn't have had it any other way.

 

Let me start by introducing you to Karen and Edgar of Puerto Rico, via NYC. We met them in a salsa bar in Tulum earlier this month. Once they explained they would be in Buenos Aires for NYE, we convinced them to join us in Rio. This is the beauty of Karen and Edgar - they are up for anything. They can even make standing in line for Sugar Loaf (which we visited today) fun.

 

K + E are staying in Copacabana, right across from the giant stage set up on the beach for NYE. Their room only has a partial view of the ocean, so Karen gets us an invite to the small party going on next door. Not only do they have a full ocean view, RIGHT in front of the stage, they are the most adorable Brazilian extended family. They insist we join them and this is where we ring in the new year. Reynoldo, the patriarch, called out a new year's greeting to Barak Obama. I was so impressed that a Brazilian would honor our new president. Later I found out Reynaldo thought Edgar looked like Barak and had been calling him by that name all night.

 

In the lobby we met a man who was honoring Carmen Miranda - i'm sure you can spot him in the pictures. He also reminded me there is a Carmen Miranda museum here. Brilliant!

 

Bands, an amazing fireworks show and a view of 2 million people, all in white, sharing the same beach. Later we walked the beach and tossed our flowers (a sign of peace and hope for the new year) into the ocean. Beautiful and perfect, just like the year 2009 will be.

           

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