La Recessionista Files

Tales from an unemployed renegade on a world tour 

In Celebration Of All The Pops, Papas and Daddy-o's

It's that special time of year when the ladys man the grill and fathers put their feet up, pop a cold one and get ready for all the accolades. Well, at least that is how it works at our house.

Wishing a joyous day to all the papas out there. Since embarking on this journey many of my friends have reproduced. A special shout out to all the new and expecting dads.

And of course, a most-special father's day greeting to my own dad, Phill. Yeah, he often tells corny jokes and his conversations sometimes leaves you wondering where his fast-forward button is, but he is an all-time great dad. As best as they come. Once when I totaled their new car (the first brand new car they'd had in maybe 20 years) my dad comforted me at the scene of the accident. "Don't cry honey, it's just a bunch of metal" and "that's why they call them accidents sweetheart, all that matters is you are safe". And when I told him I needed a bra made of coconut shells for a marouned starlette costume, he didn't even bat an eye. And have you ever tried to saw thru a cocunut? It isn't easy. Neither is knowing your daughter will be wearing a coconut bra in public, but that is another story.

So thanks, Dad. And Happy Father's Day!

In the mood to celebrate fathers? Join my pops for some live jazz starting at 5pm at the Dogpatch Saloon (2496 3rd St)
 

 

   

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You Make Bath Time So much fun

What's more fun that a rubber ducky in your bath? Why...a giant elephant, of course.
 
After our jaunt thru the jungle it was bath time for the elephants. We waded into a huge mud bog/ pond with about 8 elephants armed with scrub brushes and buckets.
 
I am happy to report that mud squishing thru your toes is just as fun at 40 as it was at 4. Although when the mud level surpased my calves I did start to wonder how quickly parasites can be absorbed into the body. And there were fleeting thoughts of how my new pedicure would fare amongst all that mud (candy apple red toes that happen to exactly match my new shoes!).
 
True to character, Bhuumtahng was not as friendly as the other elephants. Some lucky folks got to sit in the crook of their elephants trunks while bathing them. Not Bhuumtahng. We did manage to give her a hug post-bath. We ended on a high note and I think she'll miss us.
 

         

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If All Else Fails I'm Joining The Circus

In case the job search in the bay area gets tough, I can join the circus. That's right - I am now an elephant trainer. True, I need some practice but I've got some skill.
 
Yesterday we took an elephant training course where we learned basic commands (go forward, turn, stop and how to put that big caboose in reverse). It was nothing short of extraordinary.
 
Our day started with a trip to the fruit market where we aquired huge amounts of bananas (not too green or it will upset their tummies) and sugar cane. Next we drove out to the jungle where the company has about 12 elephants, including one "baby" who is 3 years old. There were about 8 people in the class and we were each assigned an elephant. We were also assigned special elephant training outfits which were oh-so fashionable.
 
Our first task was to learn how to get on the elephant by having it raise it's knee which you use as a stepping stool before jumping the rest of the way up. Not so easy. Then we learned the basic commands necessary to navigate the lovely beast through the jungle. A cane with a hook on the end is used to guide the elephants. It looks cruel but it is really just used to gently lay on the elephant in different positions (behind the left ear when you want to turn right, atop their head when you want to stop, etc.)
 
Our true test came in walking thru the jungle for nearly 2 hours. Our elephant's name is Buumtahng and she was rather cantankerous. She was also very hungry and kept pulling huge bamboo trees out of the ground. Fine by me except that she was swinging the trees right over our heads and nearly crushing us with huge tangled vines when she would march into the jungle for more snacks. She misbehaved so much that one of the handlers put a leash on her that attached like an ear-cuff. I think the ear-cuff was uncomfortable thus making her even more mad. About the time the leash appeared she started swinging her trunk and blowing elephant snot on us. She was also whacking my legs/feet really hard with her trunk, nearly knocking me off and making me wonder if crutches were in my future. Despite the battle of wills between Miss Buumtahng it was an incredible experience. I LOVE elephants. They are so gentle and huge and full of feelings. Looking into their eyes you just know they are supremely intelligent.
 
Lisa and I are both sore today. Elephant riding is a great workout. I'd even consider dumping my Dailey Method classes for some urban elephant trekking. In fact - there is my new career angle. Urban elephant treks - get your trunk in shape!

                                         

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Heading Back To Thailand

The warmth and beauty of Thailand have lured us back. We leave Hoi An (Vietnam) tonight for Chiang Mai, the Northern mountain region of Thailand.

We've had some great times in Vietnam. Here is a photo series of my favorite friend in Hoi An. We met "Mamma" at the market during my ill-fated journey to have clothing made (don't ask, I can't even talk about it). Mamma is a natural-born comedienne and a shrewd business woman. She doesn't have her own booth at the market but that doesn't stop her from roping in unsuspecting tourists for a neck massage or to have some unwanted hair removed using an ancient technique called threading.
 
Described lovingly by co-workers and family members as "bossy" and "nosy", you can tell that it is not just tourists who are charmed by the crass Miss Mamma.

Our hour with Mamma and her lady friends certainly cost us, but she is worth every penny. These pictures show exactly how I feel about Mamma: I pinched her cheek AND gave her a nuggy within the same 3 seconds.
 
 
 
 

       

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For The Love Of Zero

I happen to be challenged by numbers, especially when lots of zeros are involved my mind starts to blur.

 

I’m learning there are many countries that must be really attached to zeros. Take for example Vietnam. $1 USD equals 18,000 of their currency. When a taxi fare is 800,000 Dong it hurts my brain to calculate how much that is in USD and then hurts some more to count out all those small bills. What’s to love about all these zeros? They are makin me crazy.

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Junkin Along Halong Bay

I don’t know where the term Junk boat came from, but that didn’t stop me from boarding one to cruise Halong Bay for three glorious days( a'Junk boat' is a type of Chinese sail boat).


I’ve never been on a cruise, mainly based on a fear of being trapped in sub-standard living conditions, so booking this cruise took a big leap of faith. As it turns out, cruising is the best way to see the nearly 2,000 islands in this bay. And, despite my worry the boat is beautiful and in the traditional Chinese style..all shiny wood and bamboo; the food is decent and we’ve met some really interesting people on board. We have a tiny veranda outside our room in case we want the sea breeze blowing through our hair and a giant window in front of the bed for those lazy times when you want Mother Nature delivered to you.

 

Mother Nature took a fashionista approach to Halong Bay. The jade green waters of the bay perfectly set off the islands/rock formations made of dark limestone. Covered with lush vegetation, the islands are home to some birds and the golden-haired lemur monkey. Sadly, we didn’t have any monkey sightings. We did crawl through caves and kayak through natural stone archways that lead to hidden lagoons. All very beautiful until you look closely at the water which seems to have a fair-share of pollutants.

 

I’m loving life at sea. In case I decide to stay I’ll be in good company. There are over 100 families who live full-time in floating villages (house boats) and over 1,000 boats where people live part-time. The houses are built atop Styrofoam to make them sea-worthy (or in this case, bay-worthy).

 

The families in the floating villages make their living by fishing. Though life on the sea still seems to be fairly hard, the introduction of motor boats and free-range farm fishing has made life a bit easier. Many houseboats have large netted cages under their houseboats where fish are raised and then sold at market. I’m not keen on eating farmed fish anyways, but when I considered the proximity of the fish cages and the likely output of sewage from the floating villages I was downright convinced to stick with the tofu. I was even happier with my vegetarian selection when one of the staff from the boat asked if I had ever tried dog meat. He said it tastes really good, better than chicken.

 

Here are some pictures of the caves. The stalactite sparkled (I think due to the salt water) and the ceiling looked to be covered in diamonds (it was really just drips of water). An enchanting effect that alas my camera could not capture.

 

Also pictured are Terence and Serene our fabulous new friends from Singapore whom we met on the ship. Terence has an enviable collection of camera lenses and Serene wowed me with her wedding photos (her dad AND her dogs walked her down the aisle). You can see why we are excited to visit them in Singapore on our way home.

                                                 

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Water Puppet Theatre

Puppet shows on a water-filled stage is an old tradition in Vietnam. The puppeteers do an amazing job of bringing the floating puppets to life. Traditionally made of wood (now sometimes Styrofoam) the puppets act out scenes while the orchestra plays and sings along. The show was charming. I think I even squealed with delight a few times. 

       

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Dinner With The Dane & Ho Chi Minh's House

The world is smaller than I think. In Hanoi we had dinner with Peter, a cousin of Lisa's friend Paula. Lisa and Paula met in NYC after college. Peter invited us to his house for dinner. He is an economist with a focus on helping end poverty - he'd explain it better but I am really tired right now. Peter's house is filled with all sorts of great art, furniture and what nots from his many years living in places like Laos and Bhutan. It just so happens that Peter knows our friend Carol (the maven of weaving) and Lisa's best friend ever Tchewan who lives in Bhutan. Small world.

We heard from Paula that it was Peter's bday so we came prepared with a bottle of Danish vodka (Peter is a fellow Dane) and some birthday candles. We had a lovely pasta, some beautiful vino and the freshest salad I've had in weeks. We behaved ourselves and Peter asked us back the next night for his birthday celebration.

Today we hit the obligatory sights - Ho Chi Minh's old house and his museum.
Ho Chi Minh was a Communist revolutionary and Prime Minister of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam. The museum  provides an interesting view on why Communism has been/still is? looked upon with such favor here. Lisa wanted to see the maseleum that displays his dead body but the guards wouldn't let me in because of my tank top. I'm sorry, but I think dead bodys on display trumps bare shoulders in terms of the potential to offend. Afterwards we visited the Temple of Wisdom, which was the first university here. Eh - it was all just alright. I think the bike-taxi was the most exciting part of that outing.




         

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Hanoi

We arrived in Hanoi late last night. Our hotel had given up our reservations, which was totally Hanoi-ing. After a small rough patch we ended up at a great hotel for about $40 a night, breakfast included.

We are off to explore the city and indulge in some fresh spring rolls.

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More Temples

Here are so more pics from the Angkor Wat temples. My camera died just as we arrived at my all-time favorite temple that is surrounded by the jungle. In fact, it looks like the jungle is swallowing the temples. Giant trees are growing on top of and around some of the ruins.

Sadly, most of the Buddhas here are missing their heads. I snapped a pic of Lisa getting a blessing from the lady monks. We now have matching red yarn bracelets a'la Madonna and Demi Moore.

I've been very impressed with the sales techniques of the bands of kids selling trinkets outside the temples. One little guy was ultra-sharp. He speaks with an English accent and could name the capitol of California. After trying several tactics to get me to purchase a scarf he said "Lisa, you buy this scarf for a boyfriend." Then he smiled wider and added "you buy this scarf so you KEEP a boyfriend". So now I have a magic, boyfriend-keeping scarf. Do I have any bidders? It's only a dollar.



                           

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